Hi! I’m Valérie, a mom of three, and I’ve been passionate about sewing for almost six years. I started because I wanted to create clothes that fit my children’s body shapes, but I quickly fell in love with hacking patterns for myself as well.
When I saw the Connie Casual Shacket, I immediately thought of adding a lining to make it cozier for Québec’s chilly spring weather! For this version, I used a wool fabric slightly thicker than flannel for the outer layer and cotton fleece for the lining.
I didn’t think to take photos of the different steps along the way, but I created some small diagrams to make the process easier to understand. Here are the steps I followed.
Cutting Fabrics
Before anything else, since the finished garment will be thicker, it’s best to choose a larger size than usual for more ease. For my part, I chose a medium instead of a small.
Cut all the pieces according to the pattern, considering the following details/modifications:
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Cut the FRONT BODICE piece (2 mirrored) in the main fabric, removing ⅝″ from the button placket side.
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Also cut the FRONT BODICE piece (2 mirrored) in the lining fabric, removing 1 ⅝″ from the button placket side.
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Also cut the BACK BODICE piece AND the SLEEVE piece (2 mirrored) in the lining fabric.
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Modify the shape of the CUFF piece (4) so that it becomes a rectangle instead of a trapezoid.
Preparing the Pieces
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Apply the interfacing strips to the button plackets as instructed in the pattern, but position them ⅜″ from the edge.
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Next, fold the button plackets toward the wrong side by 1 ⅜″ and press well to create memory creases, but do not sew them yet (this step will be done much later). Note that, unlike the standard instructions, the button plackets will be folded only once.
Construction
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Then, continue with the standard instructions from pages 26 to 28 (Front to back bodice + Collar + Collar stand), but do not complete the steps on pages 29 to 32, which will be done much later (Collar stand to bodice).
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Also complete the steps on page 26 (Front to back bodice) for the lining fabric.
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Continue with the steps from pages 32 to 35 to sew the pockets onto the front bodice.
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Follow the steps on page 36 for both the main fabric AND the lining (Side seams) but wait for the next step (Hem facing), which will be done later.
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Since the lined sleeves are thicker, I chose not to add button plackets to the sleeves. Therefore, I skipped the steps on pages 41 to 46 (Sleeve placket).
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Continue with the steps from pages 47 to 50 (Sleeves + Sleeves to bodice) for the main fabric only (do not attach the lining sleeves yet).
Attaching the Cuffs
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For the installation of the cuff bands, I used the modified CUFF pieces (see the very beginning of this guide). Fold one CUFF piece in half, right sides together, then sew. Repeat for all four CUFF pieces.
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Next, take one interfaced piece and slide it into a non-interfaced piece, right sides together, then sew around only one opening. Turn right side out and press well. Repeat with the other two pieces.
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Slide one completed cuff bands onto one of the sleeves, right sides together, aligning the seams. Pin in place, then baste all around the opening. This will make the next step easier. Repeat for the other sleeve.
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Next, slide the corresponding lining sleeve over the outer sleeve (main fabric), right sides together. The cuff band will be sandwiched between the outer sleeve and the lining sleeve. Sew all around the opening. Repeat for the other sleeve.
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Then, turn the lining sleeve right side out and slide it into place inside the outer sleeve.
Joining the Main Bodice and Lining
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Next, place the main bodice right sides together with the lining bodice, making sure to fold the sleeves toward the back. Then, sew along both button placket edges.
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Turn everything right side out, then fold the button plackets inward along the crease made earlier. Press the seam allowances toward the lining and pin along the button plackets. Topstitch the seam allowances along the entire length of the button plackets.
Attaching the Lining Sleeves
To attach the lining sleeves, roughly position them right sides together with the armscye (I used one clip to align the underarm seam and another at the shoulder seam). Then, pull out the armscye and upper sleeve through the unfinished shacket hem (which is not yet closed) to finish pinning and sew from the inside. Repeat for the other sleeve, then return everything to the correct position.
Final Steps
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Pin the main fabric and the lining together all around the hem and neckline, then baste to secure them together.
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Topstitch along the button placket folds.
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Next, follow the steps on pages 54 and 55 (Buttons/Snaps).
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Continue with the steps on pages 37 to 40 (Hem facing).
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Finally, go back to the steps on pages 29 to 32 (Collar stand to bodice).
Here it is! A cozy, fully lined shacket, perfect for those chillier days!
I love sharing my creations and sewing tips on social media because that’s how I learned to sew a few years ago. If you follow this hack to make your own version, I’d love to see it! Feel free to tag me so I can admire your work.
You can find me on TikTok and Instagram: @confections.lova
Happy sewing!
(Written by: Valérie Nolet)
Pattern used: Connie Casual Shacket
