Let’s be completely honest, who likes to hem? How many of us would prefer just to leave a raw edge, and call it done? I know a year ago when I first started sewing, learning all the types of knits and what stitches worked best was a bit overwhelming. I didn’t realize there were so many different stitches and I taught myself using online resources. Later, I would soon find which stitch would work best for each project, to prevent popping and ruining the garment of everyday wear.
Finishing your project can be at times a bit tedious, time consuming and arduous. Though time consuming as it may be taking the time to complete your garment is well worth it in the end. Hemming gives your look an impeccable, polished look. Just Imagine walking into a department store and seeing raw edges everywhere, and compare that to a completed hem exactly what comes to your mind.”undone or incomplete". Granted at times on certain projects you may wish to leave a raw edge, that's completely fine and it is your choice for, your masterpiece.
Keep in mind that over time a raw edge can curl, become distorted and can make your garment look “incomplete" or cause you to go back and put more time into it, and If using wovens a raw undone edge will fray and unravel.
In this blog I can show you several different styles of hems that you can use on either knits or woven. Traditional or be creative, the choice is yours.
Here are a few of my favorite traditional hems that I use on all my projects:
Topstitch: This is a great finished look for neck bindings, sleeves, bottom hem of shirts and cuffs (do not use in areas that require stretch or popping of thread may occur)
- Fold your hem the desired depth wrong sides together
- Iron for a great memory press (use a protective towel or cloth if ironing over polyester, direct heat causes melting to occur)
- Straight stitch on the right side of your garment
Twin Needle topstitch: using the same principle as topstitching, a twin needle provides 2 parallel lines of consistency that mimics the same outward finished look of a coverstitch machine without the price. A twin needle can easily be purchased for under $10. Get creative and use contrasting colored thread that will give your garment a pop that reflects your character.
Zig Zag: This stitch is perfect for constructing garments, such as the seat of leggings and skirt hems, anything that requires the garment to stretch and creates a fun finished look as well. It is the stitch that resembles the continuous vertical pattern of the letter “Z”. (refer to 04 on the stitch key)
Triple Stitch: This stretch stitch is often referred to as the triple stretch stitch due to the fact that this stitch uses 3 overlapping stitches that allows knits to flex under pressure. (refer to 02 on the stitch key)
Blind Hem: This hem is absolute perfection when hiding a seam or if you want a completely hidden hem. You will need to create a fan fold in your fabric and press, id advise watching a youtube tutorial to fully grasp the steps to complete, also most sewing machines come with a blind hem foot aiding in the success of the hem.(refer to 09 on stitch key)
Overcast Stitch: This stitch can be used to finish the underside of your hem. This stitch mimics a serged edge. An overcast foot can also be purchased separately, if it did not already come with the machine. (refer to 06,07 08,12, 15 on the stitch key)
There are plenty ways to construct garments without using a serger or coverstitch, having a sewing machine with these featured stitches are a great way to get started in becoming the creative seamstress within. Take a deep breath and always remember it pays in the long run to take the extra time to complete and finish your look. Happy sewing, I can't wait to see your creations.
Stitch Key
