I love a good pattern hack, and one that involves very little actual pattern modifications is even better! This hack is quick and easy, and gives a totally new look to the newly released Lucky Girl Pattern. So let’s get right into it!
You will need the following additional supplies:
- Fusible interfacing
- Eyelets or grommets
- An setting tool for said eyelets
- Optional: Ribbon (or you can use the fabric you are making your top from, which is what I did)
Cut your pattern and fabric according to the directions. Follow the first couple of steps to sew the sleeve front and back together. Now STOP! Measure the distance of the opening you left, and add 1”. This is how long you will cut your interfacing. I like the interfacing to extend beyond the opening in the sleeve so that it creates a nice crisp V at ends of the opening, really holding that shape well.
Cut four strips of fusible interfacing that are the length you calculated by ½”. Why 1/2” when the seam allowance in the instructions is ¼” you ask? Because we need the interfacing to be wide enough to hold our eyelets. This also creates a wider gap in the sleeve opening, which emphasizes the design detail of the ties.
Iron the interfacing on to the wrong side of your fabric, making sure to line it up precisely with the edge of the opening. Follow your manufacturer’s application instructions to apply the interfacing, but be careful with synthetic fabrics as they can melt! If you’re unsure, test on a scrap piece of fabric first.
Once the interfacing is adhered, fold the fabric over, sandwiching your interfacing between the fabric. Iron really well here, so you get a clean and crisp line. Continue to iron to the top and bottom with seams pressed open. The ½” where the interfacing extends beyond your stitching will need to be folded over at each end to smoothly transition into the ¼” seam allowance where you sewed the sleeves together.
Repeat this process on the opposite side of your sleeve, and then on both sides on the other sleeve. Tip: use weights if you have them to allow the ironed areas to cool and set in the position you ironed them. I use my “pattern weights” (which are actually 2” washers from Home Depot haha!)
Then, hopping back over to the directions, TOPSTITCH your opening. This is so important for a clean finish!! You can see my topstitching in the photo below.
Next, use a ruler to mark where you want your eyelets to go. I placed mine every 1 ½”.
Install your eyelets using a setting tool, making sure to be very careful that they are directly across from each other.
Next, you will continue your construction of the shirt according to the directions. Attach your sleeves to the bodice, sew the side seams, and attach the bands to your sleeves. You’re almost done! We just have the laces left!
This next part is optional. You can either use ribbon to lace up your sleeves, or use fabric to make ties. I decided to use the same knit polyester for my ties that I used for the body of my top.
Cut two 36x1.5” strips of fabric. You can alter the width if you want wider or skinner ties, but keep in mind the size of your eyelets when doing so (you can’t fit ultra wide ties through tiny eyelets!) With right sides together, sew down the length of the tube using a ¼” seam allowance. I serged mine, but you can use a sewing machine too.
Use a safety pin or bodkin to turn the tube right side out.
Lastly, lace up your sleeves! I happened to have a tapestry needle with a large enough eye to squeeze my tie into, so I used that and the lacing went quite quick. This is also why I didn’t turn the ends of my ties inside and stitch the ends closed first – it wouldn’t have fit through the needle. I find it works best to get everything laced and tied, cut any excess off, and THEN turn in the ends of your ties and topstitch the openings closed.
That’s it! Super simple. Have fun pattern hacking, and make sure to share yours in our Facebook group!
Love & best stitches,
Sonia
**NOTE: I will be getting better finals of the top this weekend so can replace that last photo!
